Hawaii, Day 3

Mele kalikimaka! We had pineapple (sliced with a pilfered butter knife) and coconut (salvaged and broken open on nearby rocks) for breakfast, together with our perennial peanut butter and cheerios (cheap, filling, doesn't need refrigeration). While we were eating, Ryan spotted a sea turtle in the water just down from the shelter, so we ran for snorkels and swim suits. To my surprise, we were fast enough into the water to swim alongside it! There also turned out to be a lovely patch of coral and many types of fish in the water.

We packed up tents and drove to Wai'pio Valley. Against all odds and warning signs, Rick drove our rental car down the 25% grade road to the valley's base. We'd read up on the various available hikes, and my strong vote for the beach hike won out: 45 minutes or so over volcanic beach rock, between the waves and a cliff, culminating at a waterfall from the cliff to the water. Unfortunately, we had neglected to check a tidal chart, and the beach thinned as we approached. Finally, though we could see the waterfall around the next outcropping, we elected to turn back. Of course, it was at this point that Ryan sprained his ankle. We wrapped it up in my towel and handkerchief, and he hobbled back to the car. Eileen hiked up the road to the top of the valley, making it in an impressive 15 minutes. The rest of us elected for the adventure of driving up the very steep road (well, except Ryan, who would have preferred to walk, given the option).

We had recieved an email that morning from some orienteering friends from Canada we hadn't seen in a few years, stating that they were not only in Hawaii for Christmas, but nearby, and that we should come for dinner. Despite an inability to return the communication, we waited in Hawi for a bit to see if they would turn up. Sure enough, by the end of an hour, we knocked on the door for the address they'd given us, and they were home! Not only were we introduced to the whole family and welcomed to dinner, but we were also offered showers and beds for the night- beautifully generous, especially since our other option was a few-hour drive across the island and setting up tents in the dark.

It was a lovely Christmas.

Hawaii, Day 2

There was a trail I hadn't noticed the previous night through a forest along the waterfront. We then drove north, to a wind farm, and walked barefoot along some seaside cliffs to another Heiau. Our guidebook promised us heebie jeebies, but we were somewhat disappointed on that front. It was structurally interesting, though: the black stones of the volcano were light and jagged enough that they required no grouting to stack into high walls.

Another drive away, we hiked down a steep hill to a beautiful beach and lagoon- the two bodies of water separated only by a thin strip of black sand. The area on the far side had once been 100-foot-high black sand dunes, but it has since coalesced into firm dunes which played home to tens of rope swings, made from washed-up fishing ropes, which earlier visitors to the area had hung high from the trees.

At the far side of the beach, we discovered a trail leading up- and up, and more up, as we soon discovered. The better part of an hour later, (Eileen and Dana dropped out), Ryan, Rick, and I reached a viewpoint from which we could view much of the seven steep valleys beyond while feasting on our bananas.

Back at the car, we drove into the nearby town of Hawi, where we refilled water bottles and had Tropical Dreams ice cream- some of the best I've had. Mine was coconut ginger.

Returning to our campsite, we treated ourselves to showers in the ceiling-free structures at the beach. The water was cold, but we needed the wash- our next event was a nice night out to dinner for Christmas Eve at Pesto's. Our food was beautifully plated, with edible tropical flowers all across the top. Definitely a rare treat, though: food in Hawaii is ridiculously expensive... and I had the steak and lobster.

Hawaii, Day 1

We arrived in the afternoon, me in my all-weather heavy black coat, and walked into the humid, balmy Kona airport. I'd had a few hours home for the first time since May- flying in from Boston. Not a problem- Hawaii was a good choice for Christmas.

After a stop at Costco (the same as any I've ever seen, but with all tropical shirts in the men's section) for the week's worth of food, we drove north up the West coast.

Our first stop, in accordance with tradition, was a beach for swimming. We chose Wailea, which proved, as our guidebook suggested, to be the locals' gem: a small, sandy cove with some snorkeling at one end. After luncheoning on Costco rotisserie, naan, and hummus, we dove in. It wasn't hot out by any means, but the ocean managed to be both warm and refreshing. Ryan, Dana, and I spotted a beach just around the rocks, and decided to swim to it. I had goggles, Ryan a snorkel, and Dana nothing at all for her face. Upon our approach, Dana helped us discover that there was a great deal of brain coral not far below the surface. In fact, on closer inspection, we were basically surrounded by it- so we decided to turn back.

A short drive later, we arrived at Spencer Beach and set up camp. Our tents (one for us kids, one for Rick and Eileen) had a nice view of the beach (though there were other tents closer to the water). Rick and I walked past the beach and locals on the basketball court to climb the interwoven trees at the beach's far end. I taught myself to climb a palm tree: both arms around the back of the trunk, and both feet pushing upward.

After sunset, we made a short night hike up to a Heiau, a stacked-rock plateau which was the site of thousands of human sacrifices to Pele, the volcano goddess.

Upon our return, the picnic shelter was host to a rehearsal for some traditional dancers- involving stick-dancing and zydeco. We Texas two-stepped outside and played cards until bedtime.